Discover: Seychelles

Seychelles—an archipelago of 115 islands scattered like emeralds across the turquoise Indian Ocean—offers a rare blend of powder-soft beaches, ancient granite formations, and coral gardens alive with colour. As a diver who has spent months guiding expeditions here, I can attest that the islands’ year-round warm waters, low diver-traffic sites, and unparalleled biodiversity make them one of the planet’s last, true underwater Edens. Above water, Creole rhythms, cinnamon-scented cuisine, and laid-back island culture complete the picture.

From mellow shallows ideal for a first giant stride to deep offshore drop-offs where pelagics cruise like ghosts, Seychelles serves every comfort level.

• Shallow Reefs – St. Anne Marine Park: A sun-drenched playground (5–12 m / 16–40 ft) of lettuce corals, baby black-tip reef sharks, and confetti-like anthias. Perfect buoyancy class material.
• Advanced Walls – “The Canyon” off North Island: Descend to 30 m + (100 ft +) along a sheer granite escarpment cloaked in fan corals. Expect eagle rays soaring overhead and the occasional scalloped hammerhead in blue water.
• Wreck Diving – Ennerdale & Aldebaran: Two artificial reefs that draw schooling barracuda and inquisitive groupers. Penetration is limited to certified wreck divers; bring a torch to appreciate resident lionfish in steel recesses.
• Night Dives – Shark Bank after dusk: A favourite of mine: phosphorescent plankton turns every fin-kick into stardust while marble rays patrol the sandy patches. Keep your light low—hunting trevallies use your beam!

Sea life here reads like a tropical wish-list: hawksbill and green turtles on nearly every dive, reef sharks, bump-head parrotfish, and reef manta rays from August to November. The outer islands even host the gentle whale shark migration between October and December. Most reefs fall under marine-protected-area status, and active tagging projects track critically endangered species such as Napoleon wrasse, so sightings contribute to science as well as memories.

Water stays a balmy 26–30 °C (79–86 °F). Visibility averages 15–30 m (50–100 ft) but can exceed 40 m (130 ft) around the outer coral atolls. The north-west monsoon (November–April) brings calm seas; the south-east trade winds (May–September) can stir swell but also usher in playful currents—fantastic for drift dives. Tides are semi-diurnal; plan wall dives for slack periods to avoid whipping currents.

Expect PADI- and SSI-affiliated centres clustered on Mahé, Praslin, and La Digue, plus a few liveaboard operators servicing remote atolls. Gear rental is modern—DIN and yoke valves readily available—and nitrox 32 % is common. Most shops offer everything from Discover Scuba to Divemaster internships, limit groups to four divers per guide, and insist on pre-dive briefings that include reef-friendly etiquette. Eco-certified outfits organise reef-clean-ups and log crown-of-thorns sightings for marine-park authorities.

Base yourself near the main dive hubs—Beau Vallon on Mahé, Côte d’Or on Praslin, or La Passe on La Digue. Choices range from breezy guesthouses and self-catering chalets a coconut’s throw from the beach, to full-service dive-centred resorts with rinse tanks outside every room. Those craving remote bliss can book liveaboards or eco-lodges on the outer islands, while budget travellers find dorms and family-run homestays within walking distance of ferry jetties.

International flights land at Seychelles International Airport (SEZ) on Mahé, with connections via the Middle East, Africa, and Europe. All nationalities receive a free Visitor’s Permit on arrival provided they hold accommodation proof and an onward ticket. Inter-island travel relies on reliable ferry services, short domestic flights, or slow-paced buses that double as cultural immersion. Remember: plastic bags are banned, and single-use plastics incur hefty fines.

A minimum stay of seven days lets you sample two islands and six-plus dives; two weeks unlocks outer-island liveaboards and rest days for surface-interval exploration. Multi-dive packs (six, ten, or unlimited) shave costs, and many centres waive gear-rental fees after the fifth dive. Solo divers are welcome, yet group charters secure private skippers and custom itineraries—handy during peak season (December–January and August).

Surface time is never wasted. Trek the misty summit of Morne Seychellois, kayak through mangrove channels on Curieuse, or photograph the Coco-de-Mer palms of UNESCO-listed Vallée de Mai. Sunset brings grilled red snapper and Takamaka rum cocktails along Mahé’s Beau Vallon promenade, followed by Creole séga music that tempts even tired divers onto the sand-dance floor.

The islands maintain a fully equipped hyperbaric chamber at Seychelles Hospital in Victoria with a 24-hour emergency hotline (dial 151). Dive maps and tide tables are free at tourist offices, while marine-park permits (roughly €20 / SCR 300) fund conservation patrols. Note: touching corals or collecting shells carries steep penalties—respect the reef and leave only bubbles.

Reserve boat slots via email or online portals; a 30 % deposit secures space, with balance due on dive day. Cancellations within 48 hours often forfeit deposits, so carry travel insurance covering weather-related disruptions. Most centres answer WhatsApp queries within hours—ideal for last-minute nitrox requests or private-guide upgrades.